Today's newsletter will mostly be about Technique, Rules and Strategy.
I'm going to build a foundation for upcoming issues by covering a lot of basics.
Today we'll cover:

1) Board and equipment preparation

2) Shooting techniques

3) Practice techniques

4) Comparison of Pichenotte and Chess strategies - Wow! Who would've thought!

So let's get right into it.

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INTRODUCTION

We spend most of our time playing casual, fun games.
But..... what if you want to hone your skills and get really good?
What if you're tired of getting beaten by somebody you shouldn't be losing to?
What shots should you practice? How should you a approach a "serious" match?
To me, I like the challenge of playing someone that's my equal, or better than me.
I think in a serious match the level of play gets heightened. The shots become
really interesting. Everyone gets better. Nerves get tested. Shot selection becomes
critical, and you learn a lot about yourself and your opponent. Strategy becomes
very important, and I love to watch a good serious match, (probably better than
playing in one). There definitely is a psychological battle going while the pucks
are flying or skating across the board. And we like to keep it friendly, at all costs.
For practice, obviously a little preparation is in order.

1) BOARD AND EQUIPMENT PREPARATION

We like to take our time and set up the game table area so we get the most enjoyment
possible playing pichenotte with our friends.
It's not the NHL finals or a Tea Ceremony, but a little thought-out prep is good.

a) First thing is to make the board level. You will not be able to play your best game
if the board is downhill, uphill, or tilting sideways in front of you. The pucks will be
very difficult to control, even in the short distance to the twenty hole.
This isn't golf, and you don't need to add the extra factor of trying to
"read the slope of the green".

So, that's what our bubble level and wedges are for.
If the table itself is perfectly level, the board will be level.
But if your game table or floor is like most, it is slightly off-level.
Place a bubble level within the fifteen circle in several directions, and add the
rubber wedges under the three rubber feet as necessary to make the board level.

b) Next a good waxing with Formby's spray or straight silicone spray.
(Remember, don't use paste wax, oils or liquids - they will slow down the board, and
it will never play as good !) Anyway, lots of spray wax and buffing.
This gets rid of any dust on the board, and you will get the most frictionless
play possible. If you can make the board almost friction free, now you can predict
what's going to happen. If the board is dusty, what would have been a twenty is now
sitting in the 15 circle instead. NO GOOD! Now wax the pucks.
Get rid of any dust on the pucks.

c) Now, have you noticed that the boards play better when it's cool? When it's
hot and humid, the board slows down just slightly. This is natural with a lacquered
surface. So we like to play in a "cool" environment. An overhead fan is very good.
The lacquer being cool and hard will allow play to be consistent, true and crisp.

SHOOTING TECHNIQUE:

If you've found your groove, and have a shooting technique that works for you,
no need to read this. If you're having trouble finding the best shooting technique,
read on:

1) First thing to consider is:

What is a legal shot?

a) The shooting hand does not move - forward or sideways. Only the shooting finger.
- It is fine to stabilize the hand either with fingers or hand on the board or rail.

b) The puck is to be 'struck', with a flicking motion, hitting only the side of the puck.
-Pushing or sliding the puck from the top of the puck is definitely not allowed.
-Some like to start with the finger actually touching the puck. This is allowed.
Although it is more of a push, than a strike, it is a natural shot for many people,
especially if they grew up playing Carroms or Skully.
You can make your own "house" rules about this.

2) Many people find that a good starting point is to flick using their index finger and
pointing straight to their target with it. Many will develop this into their best shot.
Your shot should be a natural shot, not something uncomfortable.
I cannot see the puck if I shoot with a straight "up and down" stance, and my index
fingernail is crooked. So it is not a good shot for me.

I'm right handed, and I flick with my middle finger. I have a sideways shot, meaning my
wrist is turned to the right. I like to make sure my hand is stable, so I rest the
outside of my right hand on the board, and I place my ring and pinky fingers flat on
the board. It's a natural shot for me. My middle finger is about 1/16 inch from the
puck before I strike it.

Like holding a pool cue stably, I recommend you have a stable base.
Otherwise your hand is a variable. If it's always in a different position or a different
distance from the puck, your shots are going to be unpredictable.
You don't want variables. You want stability.
Now, also, the closer your shooting finger is to the puck, the less it will hurt your
finger when you go for a "blast". Sometimes you have to hit hard, and if you wind up and
shoot hard, it's going to hurt. But you can minimize this by starting with your finger
close in on the puck.
It's a comparison in hockey between a slap shot and a wrist shot.
A slap shot means a big wind-up and really striking the puck hard. That would hurt
if you were the stick or the puck! A wrist shot means the puck is already in contact
with the stick. The wrist is already cocked back, and then quickly snapped.
If you were the hockey stick, or the puck it would not be a shock to you like
the slapshot is.

3) Every now and then, you should try different shooting techniques if you haven't
found your groove yet when it comes to shooting. It's the results that matter,
not the technique.

4) If the puck consistently goes off to the right or left:
First, determine which one is happening, right or left of center.
Maybe have somebody watch your shot if you can't shoot and watch at the same time.
If your shot is going consistently going to the right, you need to rotate/pivot your
wrist to the left to straighten out your shot.
If the shot is going consistently going to the left, you need to rotate/pivot your
wrist to the right to straighten out your shot. Makes sense, right?
Like in golf where you would adjust your swing for a hook or slice, in pichenotte,
you can easily adjust your wrist. ( Then shoot hundreds of pucks to get it right :-)

5) In the beginning, it's a challenge to just make the puck go straight.

6) Then it becomes a matter of speed. How hard should you hit it? I try to hit
just hard enough to make my opponent's puck go off, and leave mine on. If I don't
leave mine on, I'm not going to win, plain and simple. But if I'm seriously behind
in points, I'll go for the "blast" and try to clear all my opponent's pucks in a
single shot, and still leave mine on. I seem to have developed a knack to do just that.
Look out, baby !

7) Shot selection. OK, you can make it go straight, you can make your puck stay on
the board. Now, what is the best shot to make? It's a good idea before each shot to
look at several possibilities. What are you looking for?

a) the shot that will gain you the most points if you make it, and

b) the shot that will leave your puck on the board in a position that will be
difficult for your opponent to shoot off. Generally this means leaving your puck on
the board in front of you, rather than in front of your opponent.
People who have a superior shot selection will win matches over people who can shoot
very accurately and leave their pucks on the board, or even score a lot of twenties.
It separates the best from the average. ( But making a lot of 20's helps !)

SOLITARY PRACTICE (practicing on your own):

1) I like to shoot twenties over and over again for practice. Try shooting from
different parts of the board. You never know which side of the board you'll have
to play on, and it does make a difference. See how many twenties you can make out of
24 pucks shot. My record is 24 out of 24, but it happens rarely.
Usually it's about 18, once I'm in a groove.

2) Another practice routine I like is to put about 10 pucks on the board to the right
and left of me, in either a random, or precise arrangement, and practice banking off
the pucks to make the shot puck go into the twenty hole. In a game, I want to be able
to bank in off of almost any puck and make a twenty. This is equally important in a game
as making a straight twenty. I think the higher percentage shot for almost everybody
is to bank off an opponent's puck, than shooting straight in for a twenty.

3) Playing the pichenotte "solitaire" game for practice.
Start with twelve pucks of one color on your right, on the table, not the board, and
twelve pucks of another color on your left. Just shoot in rotation as in a real game.
All you're trying to practice here is for accuracy. You try to make the shot you want
to make. Simple as that. You can try for simple shots, or since there's really no pressure,
try for difficult shots. You will see a lot about your shot. Does it usually go to
the right or left if you miss? What adjustments do you have to make?

Try to remember these guidelines:

a) Stabilize your shooting hand. Put fingers on the board, or rest your wrist on the rail.

b) Get your shooting finger close to the puck.

c) Once you find a natural flicking motion, always use it. Don't vary your technique.

Over time, with practice, you will be making some great shots.

PRACTICING WITH OTHERS:

Generally a lot more fun than solitary practice.

1) Do a twenties "shootout". Nothing but twenties. They're either in or out.
The player with the most twenties wins the round. We do this a lot.
It helps to prepare for a match, and gets you very used to how the board is playing.

2)Another technique is to experiment wildly when playing with another person.
Try seemingly impossible shots to see if you can make them. You'll surprise yourself
at how many you can make.

3) Play only 6 shots to 12 for your opponent.
Give your opponent 2 shots for every 1 of yours.
This is a very good way to make every shot count. Lots of fun.
You'll probably win more games than you think!

4) If there are four players,
Play 3 against one. See if you can beat all three opponents.
They're all on one team, playing against you. Very tough to win this match!
But it can be done, and we've done it.

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CHESS AND PICHENOTTE : AN UNLIKELY COMPARISON

( A lot more on this in future issues)

Here's how I think about a pichenotte match.
Having played a fair amount of chess, I find it useful to think
of these similarities and differences:

SIMILARITIES:

a) Three phases - opening game, mid-game, end-game.

b) Who wins the right to start or play second is important, even though this will even out over time.

c) Keeping the exchanges even is important.

DIFFERENCES:

a) The person with the last shot (the hammer) has the advantage,
    if skill levels are equal. In chess, there is no last "shot".

b) Pichenotte is an action game, and too much thinking will do you in.

1) the opening game - 1st 4 pucks - defense is as important as offense,
    but try to build an early lead with 20's.

2) the mid game - 2nd 4 pucks - Choose your shots carefully,
    and keep the exchanges even. Don't let your opponent get too far ahead.

3) the end game - last 4 pucks - protect the lead if you have it.
    If not, it's time to go all out and risk everything.

OK, We'll proceed from here in the next issue.

We've built a foundation, and I won't need to reiterate this basic stuff
in the next issue.

Read on for more news:

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June Sale on Pichenotte Boards -
Lots of great boards at $100 off the regular price.
See them here: http://www.pichenotte.com/LagasseModel1.htm
If you haven't gotten your translucent pucks yet, well, maybe it's time!
And how about the new "ThermoFoiled" boards for $295. ?
This is a very durable and easy to clean surface for our Standard Board.
Everybody that's played it says it's great. It has a very consistent playing surface.
Or, how about the unique inlaid boards ?
The Deluxe felted boards ?
The re-introduced all wood Classic Board?
Take a look !
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The World Crokinole Championship was a big success ! A very full event.
Over 350 participants. Over 1,000 observers.
That's a lot people on a hockey rink (without the ice)
Demonstrations of how to play carroms by the Yankee Carrom guys took place.
www.yankeecarrom.org
Did you make it up there?

I'll tell you what I know. Not that winning is everything,
but this year's champ is Joe Fulop.
You can see his picture here http://www.worldcrokinole.com/photos.html
Congratulations Joe ! One of the nicest guys you'd ever want to meet..
He didn't win the "Most 20's" category this year. He did that in 1999,
and I believe, in 2000. But who wants to be like Ray Bourque, and have all
kinds of records and not win the Stanley Cup!
Most Twenties this year went to last year's champ, Al Fuhr.
He got 95 Twenties out of a possible 240. That's without "calling twenties".
Up there, you must bank a 20 shot in off your opponent's puck if it's not
a free shot. No "calling twenties". Some people like this better, but for me,
it's not so good for my offensive-minded strategy. But do experiment if you want.
And not being able to get out of your chair takes away a lot of good shots
that could be made otherwise. But what a great event overall!
Bill Gladding will be posting a lot of information in the next couple of days to
http://www.worldcrokinole.com/photos.html, so you can check it out for details

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